:: Saturday, October 2, 2004 ::
Today is the east of Scotland meeting of the TVRCC. They have block booked a rolling road session, so I am up and away early. I am about the fourth to arrive, and park up waiting till the rolling road is ready.
If you have never seen a rolling road in action, then go. First on was a Cerbera. A 4.2 speed six. A deafening racket ensues while this thing is taken to peak power in 4th gear (equivalent to a hundred and silly miles per hour), while standing still. I can't remember the power figure but it was 300 and something.
Noisiest of the day has to be Brians T350 with sports exhaust. Also the highest power output I think - 376 bhp.
Every time I go to get my car, somebody else is parked in front of me. I end up second last, after standing about for 3 hours. I go for a wee run to warm it up, then park in the queue. Third last is another T350. When it goes on the rollers, they can't get a reading. The rollers are broken. We wait for an hour while they dismantle the rollers and try again. And again. But naw, the game's a bogey. No power run for me today.
By the time this diagnosis is made, it's too late to go to the club meeting as well. Fantastic. I'm so happy.
:: Sunday, October 11, 2004 ::
The third exhaust bolt fell off tonight. It only took me 10 minutes to jack the car up, get under and put a new nut and bolt in. Joy.
:: Friday, October 15, 2004 ::
The car has had the idle speed valve disconnected since last September because it was idling too fast. I think the problem might be the throttle pot though, they are notorious for failing. I order a new one to be delivered by post.
:: Saturday, October 16, 2004 ::
Replaced the throttle pot, and then reconnected the idle speed control valve. Car started much easier and runs much smoother when cold. Unfortunately, when the engine warms up, the idle speed sits too high - just like it was last year. I need a new idle speed control valve.
Which is a bit of a nuisance, really.
:: Sunday, October 17, 2004 ::
I started by removing the idle speed control valve, and cleaning it out with carb cleaner. I then cleaned the electrical contacts, sealing the gasket to the throttle body and refitting it.
Did this make any difference?
Nope. It still starts better but idles too fast when it warms up.
I also decided to relocate one of the bonnet catches very slightly, closed the bonnet to check position then couldn't get it open again. Magic. After much bonnet lever tugging and pulling, I ended up tying the lever back with a bit of string, and then going around nudging the bonnet with my bum till it popped open. I then put the bonnet catch back where it was.
I also used some of that liquid steel stuff to fix a couple of pinholes in the welds on the exhaust manifold, which I noticed last time I used the car, was leaking slightly.
At least that worked.
:: Saturday, October 23, 2004 ::
Tried to use the fault code reader to check the ECU and sensors etc. Remove centre console and passenger side footwell trim, and pull out normal tangle of wire and cable, including fuse box, relays and ECU. Plug in fault code reader but I get no confirmation signal, even although it seems to be going through its self-diagnostic cycle.
I start to check the connection, and as I wiggle the wires the engine nearly stops. After unplugging the fault code reader I find that twisting the loom leading to the ECU results in the engine surging and nearly stalling. Further probing reveals that it seems to be one wire (either pin 29 or pin 32) that seems to have had some kind of repair, twisting wires together and covering in insulating tape.
I untangle the individual wires and put it all back together till I can figure out what this particular wire is for.
After a lot of research, including searching the web, I find a website showing how the pins are numbered. Pin 29 seems to be the exhaust gas sensor input - and pin 32 would be for something else (can't remember what, cruise control or something that my car hasn't got). After an hour thinking about this, I have come to the conclusion that if the connection is dodgy, then the ecu might be getting a low signal, leading it to deduce that the engine is underfuelled, so it boosts injector pulse duration, chucks more fuel in so the engine revs increase, then suddenly the connection fixes itself again so the computer cuts fuel, and the engine nearly stalls.
Doesn't explain the dodgy idle speed, but worth watching. I might have a go at re-making the dodgy connections at some point.
I then decide that seeing as the weather is nice, a blatt is in order. First a stop for fuel. The young lady behind me in the pay queue says "Is that your TVR?" "yes" "MMM it's nice"... Her boyfriend agrees...
Then later as I am standing beside the car eating a bak of chips, I notice that the offside rear light isn't working. I am musing over the cause whan another car stops at the chip shop and while the passenger goes in, the driver comes over and asks for a look at the car. Fine. He asks what it is and how old etc... very nice.
After he's gone I open the boot and reseat the connector to the rear light unit. Light comes on and stays on.
:: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 ::
Finally got round to fitting the new idle speed control valve, a simple matter of unclipping a connector, removing two ickle bolts and taking it off. At this point I realise that I forgot to buy a new paper gasket when I bought the valve. 5 minutes later and a business card is cut to shape and the valve can then be refitted. A 1/2 hour blatt confirms that it starts much better, runs smoother when cold and, best of all, the idle speed returns to normal when warm.
Sorted.
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