:: Diary - June 2022 ::

:: Wednesday, 1 June, 2022 ::

The trip to the hydraulic hose maker didn't go well...

There are three local specialists, but they all say that they only do commercial and contract stuff, not power steering hoses. They say that it's not worth stocking all the bits because garages buy parts off the shelf for each car.

I also suspect that they get a lot of grief from "retail" customers. The first place I go, they can barely conceal their contempt for customers who can't walk in with exact specs and a list of part numbers - he tells me a story about a car owner who they "helped out" with a £20 temporary repair to get him going, but he came back 6 months later because the temporary repair had failed. He says that their response was to give him the £20 back and tell him to fuck off.

I kind of admire that!

Anyway, net result is no power steering pipes.

I go online and buy a metre of AN6 steel reinforced hose (rated to nearly 3 times the max pressure of the pump) and various re-usable fittings to attach that between the pump and the rack and back again. At least this way, I can make the hoses to exactly the right length!

I also phone the guy who is making the spacer plates for the rack mounting. They were supposed to be ready by now, and I can't start fitting anything else until I have those. He promised them by the end of the week.

I'm also still waiting for the track rods that I ordered a week ago... I need to fit those before I install the rack.

It has all come to a bit of a standstill for the past week, but once the parts arrive, I should be able to get it all fitted!

:: Wednesday, 8 June, 2022 ::

I picked up the spacer plates on Friday, but didn't have a chance to work on the car.

I started to install the rack on Saturday, but quickly realised (well, not that quickly, to be honest) that the edge of the pinion valve housing fouls on the "web" on the chassis for the steering rack mount. First permanent modification required!

Now, I don't want to be grinding away more of the chassis than I have to, so I spend ages with a Dremel, grinding a little bit off, trying the rack in place, grind a bit more, try again, etc etc etc.

Unfortunately, I had a number of other things to do, so didn't get far enough to get the rack to its final place, properly on the mounting.

So today, I get back to it. A wee bit more grinding, try the rack, 2 or 3 times until I get it in place.

Here's the rack bolted in place...

Unfortunately, Houston, we have another problem. Although the rack now fits into its right place, that bracing web on the rack mounting partly covers the steering hose connection. It's not by much, but it might need more grinding to give clearance.

and here's an idea of how much I have had to grind off so far, just to get the rack to fit into its mountings. I don't know about the chassis, but this is grinding me down, I can tell you. I'll come back to that another day, with a new Dremel grinder wheel.

In the meantime, I put the lower UJ onto the pinion to check clearance. There isn't much! The red paint marks in this photo show where the pinion should be when the steering is straight ahead. I measured that by turning the steering fully one way, and measuring how far the rack sticks out of the body, then the same on full lock the other way. Set it half-way and that's straight ahead! Ideally, I'd like to get the UJ further down the shaft though.

This photo shows that the vertical angle of the pinion is slightly different from the TVR rack, so I'm going to have to extend that customised chassis clearance channel (the big dent) upwards by a bit. "Percussive adjustment" the F1 teams call it.

Not today though - other duties call!

The final step for today is to put the top UJ onto the bottom of the steering column and measure how long the steering shaft needs to be. Around 310mm with the bottom UJ where it is, maybe 320mm if I can get enough chassis clearance to get that UJ further down the pinion. I order a 330mm shaft, and I hope that will still fit if I grind a wee bit off each end. If not, I can shorten it in the middle and weld a tubed joint.

The existing TVR steering shaft is 380mm, so I could just shorten that, but then I wouldn't be able to go back and install the TVR rack for our run in July, if I had to.

:: Thursday, 9 June, 2022 ::

Right - these hose connections...

That search starts a rather frustrating morning. Yesterday afternoon I phoned a company about 20 miles away who are distributors (they say) for a company called JLS Motorsport. Their catalogue includes what they call "bump tube adapters", which the Chimaera boys say are the right adapters for the Subaru rack. "Yes we can get those" they say, "bring your stuff in and we'll check the part numbers and order them for you".

So I load the rack, the pump and my selection of hose fittings into the car and off I go...

When I get there, the guy says "Ah those? Nope we don't do those." He suggests that I order them direct from JLS. What he does tell me though, is that the adapters that I have will be ok, provided that I can get them to seat tightly on their copper washer seal.

Fuck, fuck and thrice fuck.

When I get home after wasting two and a half hours (there was a Greggs bakery nearby and it was near enough lunchtime...) I decide to give these adapters a try.

Here's the 2 adapters I have. The bottom one is an M14 thread and fits the high-pressure inlet to the rack. The top one is M16 thread and is the low-pressure return to the pump.

And here they are fitted to the rack, as far in as they will go. They're a far bit short of sealing the washers!

I measure the 2 gaps with a vernier gauge, and find that I need to cut around 2 threads off the end of each, to get a seal. I cut the ends off with a wee saw then file them flat.

here's the return connector with the shortened thread...

And here they are refitted to the rack, sealing tight agains the washers.

I then fit the hose connectors so that I can check clearance between the connectors and the chassis, repeating the routine of fit, remove, grind, fit, remove, grind... As I grind further down, I realise that it's the weld at the bottom of the web that's now sticking out against the side of the hose connector and just stopping it all coming together. I don't want that connector to be under any sideways pressure and then breaking, so I need to make sure that there's even a tiny bit of clearance when it's all in place.

The Dremel is taking forever though, and it's obvious that I'm going to have to grind a fair bit of that web off, to be able to get a connector on, without breaking it against the chassis when I tighten everything down. So I take off the right-hand exhaust so that I can get the angle grinder in...

This accelerates progress significantly, especially since after around 10 fits and tests, I've ground all that bit of the web away... That's a lot of metal removed, but there is still a lot of bracing web left above and below the rack, so I'm sure that it'll all be fine.

When I'm happy that the rack bolts down fully but still leaves 1mm of clearance at that connector, I remove the rack for the umpteenth time, and give the chassis a wee squirt of paint to protect the bare edges.

The next job will be to extend the dent in the chassis upwards a wee bit to provide enough clearance around the bottom UJ and its pinch bolt.

I've been at this for 4 bleeding hours today (not counting the frustrating trip to the next town) but at last, I'm getting somewhere. However, the rack now fits, the pump is ready to fit, and most of the parts are now in my garage.

I now have feed and return hoses to make and a big dent to make. I might also need to grind down the bottom UJ very slightly (it's only just catching on the edge of the chassis) and shorten the end off the clamp bolt.

Then I can fit the rack for the 50-somethingth (and hopefully final) time, then wire in the pump - I don't want to do the wiring yet, and then have the pump in the way before the rack is finally fitted.

I'm still waiting for the track rods that I ordered from a well-known, TVR part specialist supplier 2 weeks go, but who now tells me that he doesn't have them in stock, but they are due in this week, and those WILL be a bolt-on job. I'm also waiting for the steering column shaft that I ordered yesterday and is due for delivery next week, and that will probably need a bit of fettling to the right length.

I knew before I started that this was never going to be a bolt-in job, but it has still been more awkward at every turn, than I expected. The fun isn't over till the fat lady sings (or until the fat git turns the steering with one finger).

:: Saturday, 11 June, 2022 ::

The first job today is to make up the feed hose from the pump to the rack. I have bought steel-braided PTFE hose, and re-usable connectors. Unfortunately, I don't have the technology (or the required number of arms) to make a video or take photos while I'm doing it, but this YouTube video here shows the whole process.

In summary, though, you wrap the hose in masking tape before you cut it, to prevent fraying of the braiding. I just used a hacksaw. Then take the connector apart (don't lose the wee olive!) and push the sleeve over the end of the hose. Then spread or flare the metal braising to give a wee bit of clearance between that and the inner hose lining. Oil the olive and slip it over the lining under the braiding. Make sure the lining sits right inside the olive - push it against the edge of a vice or workbench. Then oil the fitting and push it into the hose, twisting it in until its against the olive. The push the sleeve back over, and start the fitting in th thread, then tighten it.

Here's the 90 degree connector for the rack end of the hose.

Then I put the rack in place in the car, and fit that end of the hose. Then I put the pump in place and route the pipe to the pump connector and mark the length I need. I mark it slightly too long on the basis that it's easy to cut a wee bit off, but a pain in the arse to buy a new hose if it's too short.

Take the hose back out, repeat the fitting process and here's the straight connector for the pump end of the hose.

Then I move on to "percussive adjustment" of the chassis clearance to the pinion bolt. That means "battering it repeatedly with the biggest hammer that I can lift and swing in the space available." It doesn't need much, just a few mm, but it still takes many whacks to open up the gap even a little.

The UJ clamp is still slightly catching on the front corner, so I grind a teeny bit off it.

I mark where the UJ is catching on the chassis if I push it right onto the pinion. In my brain, this offers three advantages:
it means that I don't grind away metal right beside the clamp bolt;
The UJ is less likely to come off if the clamp bolt does come loose; and
it maximises the distance between the UJ and the bottom of the steering column so I might not have to shorten the new steering shaft.

Here's the UJ after it has been ground down to clear the chassis.

I shorten the clamp bolt so that it only just goes through the nut, but the nut is still only just clearing the chassis, so I use a flat file to take a wee bit of the faces off the clamp and the base of the nut. Now it's perfect!

Then I give the UJ a wee spray of paint just to tidy it up and protect the bare metal.

Here's the rack, the feed hose and the UJ all in place.

And here's the UJ on the pinion, as far on as it will go.

While eveything is in place, I get the old steering shaft and fit it to the bottom of the steering column, to check that it won't foul on the suspension at full drop, and to measure the length of shaft that I'll need. It's around 330mm - exactly the size that I ordered! I might get away without shortening it!

Then I remove the rack for what I hope will be the last time, and re-spray the bits of chassis that I have been hammering.

So, here we are, exactly one month after I started this project, between work, family commitments, not being well for a few days, frustration of waiting for parts, and occasionally not being able to be arsed. Is this now the home straight?

When will the other parts (track rods and steering shaft) arrive?

How much grief will the wiring be?

Will it even work?

Stay tuned for the next exciting episode!

:: Monday, 13 June, 2022 ::

It's the final countdown!

Well, not quite, because I'm still waiting for a few bits, but at least we should be on to fitting the system rather than getting things ready.

First set up the rack mounting clamps. Here you can see the flat 5mm thick spacer that lifts the rack slightly and also fits better into the mounting rubbers. You can also see the mounting bolts and the 20mm thick tube spacers. I realised during the fettling that I needed the spacer slightly thicker, so there's also a 1.5mm flat washer in there.

The standard racks fits in from the side, but the Subaru rack doesn't, because the pinion is muc=h longer and also the fixed pipes get in the way. The rack goes in from the top, upside down, tucking the nearside through the chassis and then rotating it as you lower, into its position.

Before clamping the rack down, I fit the feed hose to the pinion, and tighten it into position - this is a lot easier when it's upside down and not hard against the chassis!

Here you can see the spacer and washer before tightening down.

Then I install the pump in its bracket, and route the feed hose to the pump outlet.

The next step is to fit the pump return hose. I used 10mm fuel hose with a barb fitting and a clip (it's under low pressure) and fit that to the pinion end. Then I route the pipe, measure and cut it to length, and fit ir to the pump.

Here's the completed pump connections...

and here's the connections under the pinion.

I had to remove the horns days ago, to get the rack in and out (I think I forgot to mention that) so I refit those next.

I make a start on the wiring, by removing all of the existing corrugated tubing to expose the bare wires. Then I route the main live straight to the battery, via an inline fuse holder. Then I route the main earth to a chassis earth point just under the coolant swirl point.

That leaves me with 2 wires to extend and connect - one to an ignition switched source, through another fuse, and 1 to the alternator warning light terminal.

It's not difficult, but it's fiddly, and I have other things to do today though, so that will have to wait!

:: Tuesday, 14 June, 2022 ::

The new steering shaft was delivered today - it's 320mm long and it's apparently off a Ford Escort.

So first I remove the top UJ from the old shaft, and the new bottom UJ from the pinion. I line up the clamps so that the UJs are "in phase" - that means that the yokes on each end of the shaft are in line and not at angles, which makes the steering feel notchy.

I set the rack to the straight-ahead position and fit the bottom UJ to the pinion.

Then I set the steering wheel straight ahead and fit the top UJ to the bottom of the column.

and here's the completed shaft installation - the 320mm length fits perfectly!

After that, I return to the wiring. I wired in the main supply and fuse from the battery, and the main earth, yesterday, so now I need an ignition-controlled feed, and a feed from the back of the alternator. I open up all of the black plastic conduit and feed in a black wire from the ignition coil, and a green wire from the back of the alternator. The I use a mass of cable ties to fix all of this wiring back into position.

I need another in-line fuse for the ignition trigger wire though, so I'll need to buy one.

Then I get distracted by re-fitting the exhaust right-hand cat pipe.

So here's the installation as it stands so far.

I also receive a text saying that the steering rods are due for delivery tomorrow.

So I have 2 wiring connections to make and a fuse to fit, 2 track rods and ends to fit, and then fill with fluid and test! I don't know if I can handle the excitement. I know that I won't be able to handle the disappointment if it doesn't work though!

I've got a busy few days ahead though, so I might not get this finished this week.

:: Wednesday, 15 June, 2022 ::

It was all going so well...

I started today by finishing the wiring connections to the alternator and the ignition coil.

With that done, I re-installed the battery, inserted the fuses (80A in the main battery feed, 10A in the ignition feed) and fired it up!

It's designed so that the pump doesn't start until the ignition light goes out. I check that it does, but ony for a few seconds because I haven't filled the system with fluid yet.

So far so good! So next I fill the reservoir with fluid, start it again and get the pump running, and turn the steering from lock to lock to bleed the fluid through the system. Then I top up the system and check each pipe, hose and connector for leaks.

So far so good again!

Here's the installed system.

Then I prepare the plastic spacers that will fit as rack stops so that the tyres don't rub on the chassis or inner wings.

Those will fit between the rack body and the inner balljoint, like this.

Then I make a proper bracket for the battery - it has been held in place with a webbing strap for the last 19 years, but now it at least looks like it's properly secured!

The steering tie rods are due for delivery today. Those are the last bits I need to connect the new steering system to the wheels! The don't arrive until after 5 o'clock though, but I decide that I might get the car on the road tonight!

Nope. I quickly realise that these tie rods are too long, and run out of adjustment before the wheels are anywhere near straight.

These tie rods come in two lengths, for early and later Chimaeras. The first are 295mm long, the second (most common) are 335mm long. I bought the long ones, based on advice on the Chimaera forum. Now I know that I should have bought the 295mm ones, but the supplier is already closed for the day, so I'll need to call tomorrow and see if he can get them more quickly that the 3 weeks these ones took.

Other options include cutting a new thread for an inch or so, and then shortening the overall length. We'll see what he says tomorrow.

:: Monday, 20 June, 2022 ::

So, it turns out that shorter track rods are harder to find than the longer ones, and there's no clue of how long they might take to be delivered when they are ordered. Since the last ones took 3 weeks and were supposedly "in stock", I'm not optimistic. Also, I'll have to pay postage to get new ones delivered, and postage to send these ones back...

The only difference is the length (and the price, the shorter ones are a fiver more expensive, each), so I may as well modify the ones I have and save time and money.

Here's one of the track rods I have, with the track rod end balljoint at the length it has to be (measured from the total width of the old TVR rack, between balljoints). The edge of the right-hand bit of yellow tape shows the length the track rod has to be, to give at least an inch of rod inside the thread of the balljoint. It's an M14 x 2mm thread so that's 12 turns, just the same as on the TVR rack I took off.

The left-hand bit of tape shows where the threads need to be extended, to allow for the balljoint, the locknut and a bit of scope for adjustment.

So, clamp the track rod in my trusty vice, take the locknut off, cover the inner balljoint to stop metal bits falling into the joint, and spin an M14 die down the existing thread, then start cutting a new thread, with plent of WD40 to lubricate the cut. Half-turn down, back off a bit, half-turn down back off and so on...

It takes what seems like ages, but probably really no more than 5 minutes, to thread down to the second bit of tape. Back right off, a wire brush and then clean the thread with the die again and then the locknut. Here you can see the re-threaded rod, with a bit of tape back on to show where it now needs to be cut.

and here it is again, beside the balljoint.

Here it is, threaded and cut, with the balljoint fitted to roughly the right length - plenty of spare thread if needed for on-car adjustments.

Then take it apart again because you forgot to fit the gaiter...

Then repeat for the other side!

Then those are fitted to the rack - a bit of loctite on the thread and screw them into the rack ends. Then fit the tapers into the hubs and the job's done!

Well, not quite. We need to check the front wheel alignment and then that the tyres don't foul on the body on full lock.

So with the wheels back on, I roll the car forward and back a bit to centralise the steering and settle the suspension, then check that the steering wheel is more or less straight. Then I set up string lines using axle stands, just touching the front and rear tyres. That shows that I have slightly too much toe-in.

Then I can lift the bonnet and tweak the tie rods out of the track rod ends slightly, until the wheels are parallel. Then tweak them in again by 1/2 a turn each side and tighten the lock nut.

Then I check the wheels on full lock in ach direction, to make sure that the tyres don't rub on the inner wings. I need 2 plastic washers each side, to slightly limit rack travel.

A short road test shows that it's feckin' brilliant! So I go back home and pull the gaiters onto the rack body and secure them with plastic ties.

So there we are - not exactly a bolt-on job, this has been a trial of grinding, filing, sawing, welding, and various frustrations along the way. However, I wanted to see if I could do it, and I have!

For anybody that fancies having a go at power steering their S, I have added a "how-to" to this website, that covers what you should do, and skips over all the bits that I got wrong.

:: Monday, 27 June, 2022 ::

I've also put a link on Pistonheads to my wee article, and that has had a few helpful responses.

Another owner who carried out the same mod a couple of years ago, decided not to use the Fiesta / Ka u/j, but used the standard Subaru one to fit the splines. That meant cutting the Subaru shaft and welding / pinning it to the TVR one. To be fair, that's probably a tidier solution if you're confident enough in your welding. I'm not.

TVR, Ford and just about everybody else are happy with a clamp and bolt arrangement. Why should I not be?

Also if you were paying attention, you'll remember that I had to buy new track rods because the Scooby ones were a UNF thread and the TVR track rod ends are metric, so they wouldn't fit. Well apparently, track rod ends from some mid-1990s Toyota Corollas have the right thread, the right taper and are the right length to go straight on.

I wish that I had seen that wee post before I did mine, it would have saved me a lot of figuring-out, but everything turned out in the end!

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