:: Diary - December 2011 ::

:: Friday, December 2, 2011 ::

I had a look around tool shops and on the internet for a replacement right-angle drill attachment, but to be honest, although the price seems to vary widely, the degree of shitness appears pretty consistent.

I also had a thought about fitting a drill chuck to my angle grinder, but the threads are completely different, so I'd have to make an adaptor - that's a job for another day, ie sometime maybe never.

So I have decided instead, that I can hire a proper right-angle drill locally for a tenner a day. They charge for 2 days over the weekend though, because they aren't open on Sundays. So, being the tight-walleted git that I am, I decide to hire it today and take it back tomorrow.

When I get it home, it takes about 5 minutes to set it up and put the drill in the chuck, then brace the brake lever in position as I did before, and hold the clutch pedal down with my webbing strap. Then it takes about 5 seconds to drill the pedal. Then another 5 minutes to put the drill all away again. So that's ready to go back to the hire shop.

I don't have a lot of time to finish this today, so I limit myself to cleaning all the old sealant off the bulkhead (including the "Captain Tolley Creeping Crack Cure" that I used when water was leaking past the servo a few years ago). I need to buy large load-spreading washers to mount the servo to the bulkhead before I go any further. Other than that, though, I think I've got everything I need to reassemble the master cylinder and servo.

The ends of the front brake pipes will have to be re-shaped to fit the alignment of the ports in the new master cylinder, which are about 45 degrees further round than the old ports were. If they bend to the new shape, fine. If they don't, I'll replace both front brake pipes down to the joints with the flexibles at the front of the chassis.

:: Saturday, December 3, 2011 ::

First job is to take the drill back to the hire shop, and buy some big washers on the way home.

Then it's back to the car: I have one more part to remove, the old brake fluid reservoir. It's held on with two wee brackets bolted through the bulkhead on to inaccessible nuts above the steering column. Last weekend I said that I needed the help of a glamorous assistant, but that hasn't exactly been forthcoming, so I'll do it my bloody self. I manage to brace a spanner on each nut, and remove the bolts, and the reservoir comes free. That's a very short sentence for something that took bleeding ages, nipping the nut a little bit at a time. At least there was no impressionable assistant to be corrupted by bad words.

At last, we're on to assembly! I put the servo in place on the bulkhead, and make sure the clevis pin hole all lines up, and that the washers and nuts fit without fouling the operation of the servo. THen I remove the servo again and spread sosme silicone sealer around the face that meets the bulkhead, and bolt it into place.

Then I insert the clevis pin, with a selection of thick and thin packing washers, to connect the pedal to the servo.

So now it's time to install the brake master cylinder. This is an easy bit! It just slides on to the two bolts on the servo, and then two washers and nuts to tighten it in place. You can see in this photo, the bigger top holes that the reservoir fits into, and the smaller ports for the brake pipe connections. You can also see the existing brake pipe connections (wrapped in blue tape to keep fibreglass and other shit out) and how much they need to be realigned.

So - the next step is to connect up those brake pipes! The old brake pipes are copper rather than steel so they bend to shape easily - but I don't know how long they have been on the car (9 years at least!) so they might be work-hardened, so I am wary of splitting or stretching them. The rear one is relatively easy - a slight straightening of the end, and it connects straight up. The front ones aren't so easy to align to get the threads to engage, but they connect eventually.

Then the reservoir pops into the two top ports. Last step is to realign the servo vacuum hose, and cut about 4 inches off the end (that's about 100 mm for those of you who aren't pre-decimal like me) and replace the non-return valve.

The cylinder has 4 ports but I only need 3, so I put a brake bleed nipple in the spare port (the bottom rear one here) and fill the reservoir.

It's a much tidier looking arrangement than the original, and now there's no risk of a rusty servo splitting, or of the rubber pipes to the reservoir hardening and splitting in the heat from the exhaust (which is not unknown!). That's why they are wrapped in heat-resistant foil!

I replace the reservoir mounting bolts, again with a bit of silicone on, to seal the holes in the bulkhead.

I need to bleed the brake system through, before I replace the seat and the steering column. I've got one of those pressure bleeding kits, but I have never got on with it. I've also got a one-way valve but I think it's along at the farm. I like to see what I am doing when bleeding brakes, anyway, so I do need a helper for that, so it'll have to wait.

:: Tuesday, December 6, 2011 ::

I manage to persuade a (willing) helper to come out to the gitcave and hold a spanner on a bolt on one side of the bulkhead, while I tighten up the nut on the inside. It takes less than a minute - a considerable improvement on the "bleeding ages" I have spent already, trying to get a spanner so stay on one side while I tried to turn the other end.

So with that done, I can put the steering column back, and then the seat - not tonight though, I don't have much time, I only did that bit because my wee elf was available.

Yesterday I bled all the brakes through, starting with the furthest from the cylinder (ie nearside rear) then working back to finish with the offside front. I managed to forget to top up the reservoir though, between the 3rd and 4th one, so I drew in air so had to do the two front ones again. Dick. (and no, unlike some, that's not my new name for the car).

I also replaced the two rear brake nipples which were chewed to hell.

:: Sunday, December 11, 2011 ::

I had a nice surprise on Friday. I was going into Edinburgh for a work meeting, not very far from the shop where I bought that right-angle drill attachment. Despite the problem that I don't have the receipt any more, I thought I might as well pop in amd see what they said. What they said, before I'd even finished asking, was "No problem, do you want a credit note or do you want to pick something else to the same value?" So, well done Machine Mart.

Anyway, I decide that today I'm going to get the interior finished, and get the car running to make sure everything works - or, more likely, to find out what doesn't - all that electrical wiring getting pushed around must have dislodged something!

After I've given the carpet a vacuum to remove the debris from drilling the bulkhead, I start to fit the steering column. First the column goes through the bulkhead bearing, then I support the steering wheel on a wee box while I carefully route the wiring back to the right connectors - two on the right side for the lights and wipers, to on the left for the indicators and headlight flash etc. Another connector underneath connects up the ignition switch, and then finally there's a single wire to be connected up. There's another connector for the boot switch, and a wire to the manual radiator fan over-ride, but I can't connect those yet.

Right - now to push the steering wheel up into position, and bolt it to the bracket using the two big spacers, being careful not to trap any wiring between the bits.

Then I connect up the radiator and boot release wiring to the switches on the lower steering cowl, and refit that to the column.

Under the bonnet now, to connect up the steering up to the bottom of the column. I had marked which way the UJ went on, and I haven't turned either the steering wheel or the front hubs since, so it goes back exactly as it camne off anyway. Tighten up the pinch bolt and then refit the gaiter I fitted to keep the UJ free of water and grit from the front wheels.

Then it's a simple matter of refitting the driver's seat, and apart from the radio, that's the interior more or less finished!

So - should we switch her on and see if it starts? Well we haven't fitted the exhaust yet, but... well who can resist? I turn the key, the warning lights come on - so far so good. I try the lights, then the wipers, indicators etc, and they all work. So do the panel lights, the front and rear fog lights and the heater fan. The voltmeter reads (low, but it reads!) So far so good again.

I make sure it's not in gear (I learned that lesson the hard way!) and turn the key - it bursts into life! A wee throttle blip, the alternator light goes off, and the oil pressure gauge reads normally. I leave it running for a couple of minutes till the temperature gauge starts to move. Everything normal - well except for the fuel gauge, which is stuck resolutely at "empty". That could be because it IS empty, I can't remember if I had petrol in it when I started this. I'll have to check that.

In the meantime, I decide to wire up the brake fluid warning system to the reservoir cap. I was thinking of transferring the Saab cap over so that I can use the same electrical connector for the "low fluid warning" system (although my connector keeps falling off). When I look at it, though, the Saab cap fits but it's a lot longer, and because of the master cylinder mounting angle, the front part of the reservoir would be empty long before the sensor (in the rear part) registered a problem. I decide to be sensible and fit the Ford cap to the Ford reservoir - unfortunately, that means that I need a Ford loom connector, which I don't have. I'll have to extend the wiring to the new relocated reservoir anyway, so I decide I'll get the connector first (either new or from a scrappy) and then decide where to cut the existing wiring to wire it up.

Finally, I decide to fix down the ends of the door seals in front of the hood - I remember I had a problem with those before, where they curve tight round the top of the door opening. A bit of glue, stick them on and then clamp them in position till the glue dries.

:: Saturday, December 17, 2011 ::

See this? This is what a TVR S Series looks like when it's sitting on its wheels. I'd almost forgotten what that looked like, but today, ma leetle chooms, I got it down off the stands!

First task was to refit the exhaust. I loosen off the top connections of the decat pipes (at the manifolds) to let them move and connect properly, then I jack up the rear of the exhaust on a wee block of wood, to a few inches lower than its fitted position. Then another jack under the front, and lift that up into position, making sure the two mounting bolts at the silencer fit into the slots as I lift it.

Then I fit the six bottom decat bolts and nuts, but don't tighten them at this stage. Then lift the rear of the exhaust into position and fit the two silencer bolts and the single bolt at the rear mounting, pushing the exhaust forward so that everything lines up. Then I tighten up the decat bolts and the manifold bolts. Sorted!

At this stage I can't help starting it up, just to hear it (and to check for exhaust leaks, obviously). It starts first time and purrs like a kitten. A very big kitten with an adenoid problem and a bad snoring habit. It sounds brilliant. The engine sounds really smooth, it's great.

I also noticed, while I was refitting the exhaust, that there is hardly any paint left on the bottom wishbones - and what there is, flakes off when you pick at it with a screwdriver. Another front suspension repaint required - not with Hammerite this time, though, it's crap. The POR-15 paint I used on the sills when I repaired the outriggers a year ago, is completely unmarked (the top coat has come off in places, but there is no exposed metal) so, guess what the suspension will be getting painted with?

Then I replace the offside inner wheel arch and the bonnet gas strut, both of which are dawdles, then it's a simple matter of replacing the wheels in the right order, and lowering the car to the ground in stages.

I still have to wire up the brake fluid level warning light. I haven't had a chance to get a connector though. I don't know how to wire it up either - the Saab unit had 2 wires, the Ford cap has 3. The Cerbera seems to have the same cap, but that also only has 2 wires.

First I switch on the car's ignition, and check that the warning light is off. Then I short across the two wires to the cap, and the light comes on. So it's "full to break, empty to make" the warning circuit.

I have a spare 3-terminal cap (on the "wrong" reservoir I bought) so I decide to see how that works, using a meter across the terminals, and turning it upside down (so that the float is in the "full" position) and then right way up (so that the float falls to "empty"). Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to make any difference - there is no continuity across any of the terminals in either position.

So then I try the cap that's on the car. It has continuity across terminals 1 and 2 when the cap is right way up - but continuity across all 3 terminals when its upside down - so it makes the circuit on full, and breaks it when the level drops - ie the opposite way around to the car's wiring... Why is nothing ever easy? I'm going to get the necessary wiring connector and then worry about the right cap later. No I'm not, I've just changed my mind - I'll put the Saab cap on, bugger it.

I need to renew the 6 wee bolts that hold the steering wheel on to the boss - they look rubbish. I use a 3mm allen key to take one out to measure.

I also need to replace the radio and the the fire extinguisher. I also need to add a couple of holes in the carpet for the heater vents in the footwells.

I've also decided to paint the seat piping back to its original colour (dark blue). Oh and re-cover the inside of the roof panels.

I also need two new rear tyres.

What else?

In the meantime, here's a picture of a Cerbera with some snow on it. There's no snow on the drive because I cleared it and gritted it yesterday, before any potential helpers in my family were even up.

:: Sunday, December 18, 2011 ::

Silent night. Holy night. All is still, all is bright. Except for the car alarm at the side of my house.

It's 4am. The Cerbera's car alarm is chirping away merrily, in its own 4-hours-till-dawn chorus. "Simples" thinks I, just switch it off with the wee blipper. Except it doesn't recognise that the blipper is there. The battery is too flat.

"Chirp, Chirp, Chirp" it goes.

Neighbour's lights are on, curtains are twitching. Above the chirping I can hear the faint noise of baseball bats being slapped into palms.

"Chirp, Chirp, Chirp" it goes.

The car won't even unlock...

I need to get to the battery. To do that I need to open the bonnet. To do that I need to get the door open... although a big fuck-off axe holds a certain attraction. But no - first I break into the car, which takes a few minutes. I do all this at a run, partly because to keep the curtain-twitchers convinced I am trying, but mainly because I am bursting for a pee.

"Chirp, Chirp, Chirp" it goes.

Right - door open, bonnet open, spanner on battery terminal, disconnect battery. The bloody lead won't come off with the cover panel in place, so I get an allen key and remove the panel, then the battery terminal.

"Chirp, Chirp, Chirp" it goes.

Shit, it's got its own battery to keep it going. Reconnect battery. Alarm goes off properly. Not for long though because the battery is flat. Then it goes back to "Chirp, Chirp, Chirp".

I get my battery booster jump-start pack, and connect it up to the battery. Alarm goes off full tilt. I've put down the key fob in the garage so have to run (with my legs still crossed) to get it and switch it off. It works!

Remove power pack, shut car, leave it unlocked (it's blocked in by the other car anyway. I do consider moving the other car out of the way and making a large "steal me" sign, but I am always grumpy in the mornings. And most afternoons, come to think about it.)

Then it's indoors for a pee and back to bed (in that order).

:: Sunday, December 18, 2011 - Instalment 2 ::

Well, setting aside all other tasks for today, I decide that I had better make the Cerbera better - apart from anything else, I need to be able to lock it while I am not here (ie away in the car that blocks it in at night).

It's now 9.30am. I decided to leave it a bit so that my neighbours wouldn't have to listen to car alarms too early. The car is still as dead as a dodo's grandad. I decide to charge up the battery with the trickle charger. Except it's along at the farm, and I'm not.

Never mind though, I've got another car battery charger. Can't find it though.

Plan C - start the car with the booster pack. Unfortunately I used up some of the charge on that last night, and didn't think to plug it in to recharge. It turns the engine over, but not fast enough to start it.

Plan D - I'll jump start it off the Fiesta. Nope, although it turns over, the Fiesta's battery just doesn't have enough oomph to shift 4.2 litres fast enough.

So it's Plan A (first variation) - I need to go along to the farm for the trickle charger. It was minus-something degrees last night, and all the snow that looked so photogenic last night has now turned into a sheet of ice on the hill I live on, so there is no chance if me getting back up there in the Lexus. So I take the Fiesta along to the farm, get the charger and return.

With that plugged in, I also recharge the power pack - I'll connect it up again for added va-va-voom when I try to start the bloody thing later (or tomorrow maybe).

I had a wee list of things to do to the S, but I'm too scunnered now, and it's freezing in the garage. So I'll leave that as well.

Oh, I did order a pair of tyres last night, to be fitted on Thursday.

:: Monday, December 19, 2011 ::

I checked my POR-15 out in the garage. Despite being sealed airtight, it's still gone hard (the tin is half empty so there's obviously enough air in there to react with the paint). The red topcoat is still fine though. I order some POR-15 in silver, for the suspension wishbones etc. If I don't like them silver, I'll topcoat them in the same red as the outriggers.

Anyway, on to today. The Cerbera has been on a trickle charger all night, so I switch it off, and check the battery voltage - just under 13 volts. I connect up the booster pack for added kick, and it starts! While it's warming up, I replace the cover panel, and then replace the bits I had to remove as part of the 4.00 am emergency access procedure (obviously I am not going to explain here, what those are)!

Once the car has warmed up, I switch it off and check the battery voltage again - about 13.2 volts. I plug in the trickle charger again and leave it to top up.

Then I decide not to replace the screws in the steering wheel on the S, but to paint them instead. A tiny brush and some satin black paint, and it takes 5 minutes, and it looks fine.

I've got a bit of work to do as well today, though, so that's as much time as I can spare.

:: Friday, December 23, 2011 ::

I took the back wheels off the car yesterday, and took them along to get the tyres replaced. One pair of Continentals fitted, but I didn't have time to put them back on the car. So I put them back on today.

What I did notice yesterday was that everything in the garage was soaking in condensation - I mean running down the bodywork, dripping off the wheels type condensation. None of the air vents are blocked, maybe the rain was just going sideways? The wee drain in front of the garage door, I notice, is almost blocked by leaves - I wonder if that has led to water running under the doors? I clear out the leaves but I'll have to watch for that.

Anyway, so then I clear up piles of stuff lying about the garage floor - not just tools, but jump leads (for the Cerbera) and various other stuff that takes ages to sort out.

Then the postman arrives with the silver POR15 I ordered - so now I've got no excuse not to strip and repaint the front suspension. Bugger.

I also bought a little ultrasonic cleaner on Monday, one of Lidl's special offers. It only takes small items up to about the size of a CD, but I try it out on a pair of glasses, then some keys, and then finally a spanner I bought in 1978, and they all come up really good, considering I'm only using cold water. Apparently warm water works better, and then adding a detergent like washing up liquid works even better - we'll see eh?

Still a bit of work getting in the way though, so I still haven't fitted the radio!

:: Monday, December 26, 2011 ::

I decided to have my traditional Boxing Day run today - it's been raining, and it looks like there's more on the way... but sod it, I haven't driven a TVR for 2 months so I am having a go. I have a run about at random for an hour and a half, around here and into Edinburgh, and the Cerbera doesn't miss a beat. It's brilliant.

I intended to finish the S when I get back - the radio, brake warning system etc, but instead I decide to have a play with man's red fire. I am leaving the company where I have worked for over 20 years, and have set up a business on my own. I cleared out my desk on Tuesday, and I have a huge pile of copy invoices, management meeting minutes, company accounts etc, which I started to shred on Tuesday but that was tedious, so I decided to burn them. So, with the help of a big tin, I set about it today. It takes 3 sessions, but I get rid of the lot by tea time. I think I'm a pyromaniac - there's some primitive pleasure from burning things... So that means it's on to the car work tomorrow!

Not quite. Young miss git reports that her car is making "a funny noise" when she moves it. This girly diagnosis is negated within only a few yards - the noise isn't funny at all - she has a broken front spring, so the whole suspension has collapsed, and the broken bit is rubbing against the tyre. It's getting dark so I park the car in the level bit of the drive, ready for dismantling tomorrow. That should keep me busy!

:: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 ::

See this? This is what happens to your finger when you gat it jammed between two spring compressors that slip while you're fitting the spring to a McPherson strut. This is especially what happens when you don't wear work gloves. Be careful kiddies!

I fixed the spring on the Fiesta today - it wasn't too hard to be honest, until I was putting the new spring on, and fitted the top mount, then as I was removing the spring compressors, one of them spun round and jammed my finger against the other one. I thought I had broken it, it was so sore, but it's calmed down since - now it's just dead. I was wearing work gloves too, but had just taken them off to get the top bolt to catch the thread, and had tightened that up. I forgot to put them back on - and that's what I get.

Mission accomplished though, car fixed, no bits actually severed, so it can't be all bad. Everybody's happy.

Between that and my rheumatic thumb and dodgy knees, I think I'm getting too old for this.

:: Saturday, December 31, 2011 ::

I finally managed to escape from the house for a wee while, and spent some time tidying up the garage. I also refitted the radio - now that's really not difficult, except for the fact that I have about 2 foot of wiring between the car and the radio, and it doesn't fit very well behind the radio when it's in place - but it's in, and it works.

I also noticed that one of the rear wheel rims has had quite a lot of the black paint chipped off the inside egde when the tyres were changed. The other one is fine. It's not too bad though, and it's on the very edge of the rim, not the face. I touch it in with some black gloss and it looks fine.

I haven't filled in the feedback form on the tyre purchase yet though, so I'll see what response I get to that.

So to recap: I still have to reconnect the brake fluid warning light sensor, clean up the steering wheel, refit the fire extinguisher, and then strip and repaint the front suspension wishbones.